But what do you do when the canvas is already stained? That’s when the difficulty increases. The first step is as above to get rid of all the easy dirt. Then you gradually increase your efforts. Try using your deck brush to gently scrub the stains out. Next try non-chlorine bleach such as VIVID or CLOROX II in weak solution (1/8 cup/gal). Only when all else fails should you resort to chlorine bleach or mildew removers such as X-14 or TILEX. If you are going to use any of these harsh chemicals thoroughly wet the canvas with fresh water first. Again, try to use a weak solution, adding more bleach only as necessary to get results. As soon as the stains fade rinse with copious quantities of fresh water. The bleach will probably hurt the waterproof finish of the fabric and it will also decrease the life of the polyester thread used in construction. Obviously, mildew prevention is the way to go. You can re-waterproof canvas with products such as AQUA-TITE or CAMP-DRY (silicone water repellents) or other fabric treatments. Do not use Thompsons Water Seal or other products not formulated specifically for fabric. They will make the fabric stiff and change the color. Monitor the stitching and if it starts looking fuzzy or thin take the piece in for restitching before the seam falls apart.

Here’s a good trick that we’ve learned to prevent mildew growth on canvas. Get a pump spray bottle and fill it with 50% white vinegar, 50% water. Whenever you wash down the boat (and after heavy rains) spray the canvas with this solution – especially the under side of dodgers and biminis. The vinegar won’t hurt the canvas but will prevent mildew growth.

Clean and protect your clear vinyl or polycarbonate windows regularly with a product made for plastics such as DAVIES KLEAR-TO-SEA or McGuires MIRROR GLAZE. Hose off any salt first, then clean and polish with a chamois or soft cotton cloth. Do not use paper towels; they’re very abrasive. Do not use Windex or other products containing alcohol, which will make vinyl soft and sticky. Products designed for plastic will prolong the life of your windows by replacing the oils that keep the plastic flexible.

What about your sails? How do you keep them clean? The single biggest thing you can do to keep your sails clean is to dry them. If you have to furl your sails wet, make it a point to shake them out when the rain stops and let them dry. Unfurl you genoa at the dock if there’s little breeze, pull the main part way up, and let them air. Don’t strangle the main when you put the stops on. Tight stops cause unnecessary chafe on the sail as well as trapping moisture. Make sure your mainsail cover fits loosely so there is air movement under it.

It’s also important to wash out salt and gritty dirt that can cause abrasion to the fibers. You can do this on a nice light air day with the sails on the boat. Just unfurl/hoist the sails in your slip and take the hose to them. Drop the genoa on the fordeck, scrub the head with your deck brush and a mild soap solution, rinse, hoist that section to get it off the deck, and move down to the next section. Scrub, rinse and hoist until it’s all the way up, then let it dry. Do the same thing with the mainsail on the cabintop. It’s a good excuse to play with the hose on a hot day. Of course, you can pay professionals to wash sails for you too.

To get grease out of your sail try GREASE RELIEF or K2-R SPOT REMOVER, both found in the grocery store cleaning products aisle.

Mildew is as tough a problem on sails as on canvas. Sails don’t like harsh cleaners like bleach or phosphates any more than canvas does. The fibers start to break down after prolonged contact, especially when exposed to the sun. If you feel you must bleach an area of your sail, be very conservative on solution strength and flood the area with water to drive out the remaining bleach. Let it dry before stowing. You should be monitoring the stitching for chafe as a matter of course, but bleach will accelerate thread deterioration, so be especially watchful in bleached areas. Again, mildew prevention by drying your sails is the way to go.

There are a number of products on the market that are supposed to do wonderful things for keeping your boat and gear clean. I’ve used the ones mentioned in this article, and they do work. As always, common sense is the key. Read labels, avoid harsh alkalis and acids if at all possible. Prevention rather than repair will keep your boat looking smart and save you time and money.